雖然金門是很多當兵抽中金馬獎的人共同的回憶，但是身為海陸的我可是連去的機會都沒有，更遑論之前處於戰時狀態根本也無法前往觀光。這些年隨著金門大規模裁軍以及觀光業的興起，金門目前已經成為台灣一個以軍備發展與古蹟人文兩種相互衝撞歷史為主題的一個觀光勝地。
🇺🇸 Read in English
Although Kinmen is a shared memory for many soldiers who drew the "Golden Horse Prize" (military service in Kinmen/Matsu), as a Marine, I never had the chance to go, let alone visit for tourism during the martial law era. With large-scale disarmament and the rise of tourism in recent years, Kinmen has become a unique destination featuring a clash of military history and ancient heritage.
吃了將近40年的飯，終於在今年夏天有機會前往金門一遊，而這回下榻的地點就位於大金正中央瓊林里的樓仔下古厝民宿。
🇺🇸 Read in English
After nearly 40 years, I finally had the chance to visit Kinmen this summer. The place I stayed at is "Louzai Xia Ancient House Homestay," located in Qionglin Village, right in the center of Kinmen Island.
電冰箱最新食譜書(已絕版) 一人餐桌這邊買唷
御賜里名：瓊林 (平林)
說道瓊林這地方古名平林，因為此地地靈人傑出了許多大官，因為古代皇帝認為平林之名太過庸俗，所以御賜"瓊林"里名褒揚以詔天下而得名！
🇺🇸 Read in English
Qionglin was anciently known as "Pinglin." Because this place produced many high-ranking officials, the Emperor thought the name Pinglin was too vulgar. He bestowed the name "Qionglin" (Imperial Forest) to honor the village and proclaim its excellence to the world.
剛下飛機租了車還搞不太清楚東南西北時就接到樓仔下老闆張先生的電話詢問何時到民宿？經過 Google Map 及張先生電話指示冰箱開車來到瓊林這個帶著濃濃古意又寧靜的地方。為了方便停車所以張先生引導我來到民宿的後巷。
🇺🇸 Read in English
Just after landing and renting a car, while still disoriented, I received a call from Mr. Zhang, the owner, asking when I would arrive. Guided by Google Maps and Mr. Zhang's instructions, I drove to Qionglin, a place full of ancient charm and tranquility. Mr. Zhang guided me to the back alley for easier parking.
入住百年古厝：穿越時空的體驗
根據巷口 111 招牌的箭頭穿越過兩座大宅形成的一線天，拐個彎進門就來到我將來三天金門臨時的家 - 樓仔下瓊林 111 號古厝民宿。
🇺🇸 Read in English
Following the arrow on the sign for No. 111, I walked through a narrow alley formed by two large mansions. Turning a corner, I arrived at my temporary home for the next three days in Kinmen—Louzai Xia Qionglin No. 111 Ancient House Homestay.
目前金門以許多修復完成的古厝民宅成為地方的一個觀光特色，其實這是在地金門國家公園多年來致力保存修復一些具有地方代表性人文古蹟所完成的一個階段性成果。國家公園會評估修復可行性以及幫助解決產權問題，之後再出資考究歷史修復完成，再公開招標讓業者進駐經營。
🇺🇸 Read in English
Currently, restored ancient houses have become a major tourist attraction in Kinmen. This is actually a result of the Kinmen National Park's long-term efforts to preserve and restore representative cultural heritage sites. The National Park assesses feasibility, helps resolve property rights issues, funds historical restoration, and then opens tenders for operators to manage these properties.
現今大部分散落在金門各地的古厝民宿大多都是這個計畫的一部分，我這次下榻的樓仔下也是其中的一個案件。這間瓊林 111 號大宅原本是蔡世益、蔡科甲兄弟至沙勞越經商致富後於清光緒 15 (1889) 年僑匯回鄉興建，建築物一直被居住到西元 1976 年荒廢直至 2009 年委託許鳴育建築師規劃設計修復。
🇺🇸 Read in English
Most of the ancient house homestays scattered across Kinmen are part of this project, including Louzai Xia where I stayed. This Qionglin No. 111 mansion was originally built in the 15th year of the Guangxu reign (1889) by the Tsai brothers, who made their fortune in Sarawak. The building was inhabited until 1976, then abandoned until 2009 when architect Hsu Ming-yu was commissioned to plan its restoration.
建築物為二落大厝加迴向，雕梁畫棟讓人目不暇給，可以想像當年蔡家是如何的飛黃騰達！傳統閩式建築有樑無柱，整座房子都是靠四面堅固的牆壁撐起，所以雖然外面看起來也許不大，但少了柱子的關係裡頭空間卻是相當寬敞的。
🇺🇸 Read in English
The building features a two-hall layout with side wings. The carved beams and painted pillars are dazzling, reflecting the Tsai family's prosperity back then! Traditional Fujianese architecture uses beams without pillars, relying on solid walls for support. So, while it might not look huge from the outside, the interior feels very spacious without pillars.
完全依照歷史考據修復的古厝，身在其中只差沒有穿上古裝，不然整個人好像穿越時光隧道回到過去一般。這類古厝冰箱多年前跟家裡遊蘇杭時曾經入住周莊的百年古厝，雖然周庄的年代更為久遠，不過以環境及舒適方便性來說金門這裡的古厝感覺是略勝一籌！
🇺🇸 Read in English
Staying in this historically restored house feels like traveling back in time—all that's missing is a period costume! Years ago, I stayed in an ancient house in Zhouzhuang, Suzhou. Although Zhouzhuang is older, Kinmen's ancient houses feel superior in terms of environment and modern comfort.
民宿老闆帶路：探索戰地遺跡與風獅爺
進房放好行李稍事休息之後也近傍晚，金門的夏天是相當炎熱的，稍微涼爽一點時民宿張老闆提議要帶我及其他當天住客來個一小段瓊林巡禮，由他來幫我們做簡單的導覽解說，這是"撒避暑" (Service) 的喔~ (賺到)
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After settling in, it was approaching evening. Summer in Kinmen is quite hot. Once it cooled down a bit, Mr. Zhang offered to take us guests on a mini-tour of Qionglin with his guide service—free of charge! (Score!)
從前院看到隔壁就是一座蔡氏宗廟，聽老闆說在這邊居住的人大部分都是親戚，以蔡姓為主，連老闆娘也姓蔡。
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From the front yard, we could see a Tsai Ancestral Shrine next door. The owner told us that most residents here are relatives, predominantly surnamed Tsai—even the landlady is a Tsai.
在金門真的到處都能看到舊日屬於戰地的遺跡，才走出民宿就看到古厝牆上這幅主義、領袖、國家、責任、榮譽的精神標語嵌在上面。
🇺🇸 Read in English
In Kinmen, remnants of the battlefield era are everywhere. Just outside the homestay, I saw the military slogan "Principles, Leader, Country, Duty, Honor" embedded on an old wall.
除了修復完成的古厝之外，其實如照片中這種年久失修已經頹圮的其實還到處可見。張老闆說包括我入住的瓊林 111 及其他大部分的古厝民宿整修之前的狀況都跟眼前這些古厝不相上下，怪怪~
🇺🇸 Read in English
Besides the restored houses, dilapidated ruins are still visible everywhere. Mr. Zhang said that before restoration, Qionglin 111 and other homestays looked just like these ruins. Incredible!
如果說台南是全台灣廟宇最多的城市，那麼金門應該是家祠最多的一個地方，光在瓊林這邊就三步一小、五步一大。
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If Tainan has the most temples in Taiwan, then Kinmen must have the most Ancestral Halls. In Qionglin alone, they are everywhere.
辨別廟宇與家祠最簡單的方法就是看屋頂上兩隻龍頭的方向，如果龍頭向下圖一樣向外，那就是家祠，因為想要保佑在外打拚的子孫平安順利。而龍頭向內，如下圖瓊林保護廟屋頂上那兩隻一樣，這種就是供奉神明的廟宇，保佑的是在轄區前來朝拜的信徒。坦白說這個東西以前沒人說明我還真不曉得，虧我自己這麼喜歡廟宇建築，著實汗顏。
🇺🇸 Read in English
The easiest way to distinguish between a temple and an ancestral hall is the direction of the dragon heads on the roof. If they face outward, it's an Ancestral Hall, protecting descendants working far away. If they face inward, like at the Qionglin Protection Temple, it's a temple for gods, protecting the local worshipers. I honestly didn't know this before!
在金門隨處也可以看見這種鑲在牆裡的石敢當，這是傳統金門人用來擋煞的，而著名的風獅爺也有異曲同工之妙用。
雕梁畫棟是我對金門古建物最深刻的印象，其實早期金門人遠走他鄉刻苦致富的案例不勝枚舉，成功之後多會回饋鄉里或宗族，也因此造就金門如此完整的閩式建築聚落遺產。在金門，聽說祖先的地位是高於神祇的，所以在金門的供桌上祖先牌位被安置在龍邊以示後代子孫的尊敬。
🇺🇸 Read in English
You can often see "Shi Gan Dang" (stone tablets) embedded in walls to ward off evil spirits, similar to the Wind Lion Gods. The intricate carvings are my deepest impression of Kinmen architecture. Many Kinmen people made fortunes abroad and returned to build these homes. In Kinmen, ancestors are highly revered, often placed in the most honorable position on the altar.
因為金門過去曾經相當繁榮，許多古厝建築細部也充滿各種巧思，像下圖這個石座聽說就是過去廚房料理台的排水系統。
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Because of its prosperous past, many architectural details are ingenious. For example, this stone base was reportedly part of the kitchen's drainage system.
外牆上用紅磚特殊砌法的窗櫺，既通風又可以確保隱私。站在 45 度角才能勉強看到圍牆內的一點風光，真是佩服古代工匠在建築上的巧思呀~
🇺🇸 Read in English
The brick windows are designed for both ventilation and privacy. You can only peek inside from a specific 45-degree angle. The ingenuity of ancient craftsmen is admirable!
走在路上到處都是蔡家的祠堂，這些祠堂除了總祠之外其實還有許多後世另外分出修築的，所以有些祠堂門口會寫的"X世祠堂"就是另外分出來的。紅磚、燕尾簷等元素組成這種傳統閩式院宅，低調中卻也不難看出當年曾經風光的過去。
🇺🇸 Read in English
Tsai family ancestral halls are everywhere. Besides the main hall, there are branch halls built by later generations. The red bricks and swallow-tail roofs show the former glory of this traditional Fujianese architecture.
除了欣賞古厝之外，金門曾是最前線戰地的過去也是最為人所津津樂道。大街上處處可以看到斗大的精神標語，就是當初戰地人們最高的指導原則！
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Besides ancient houses, Kinmen's history as a frontline battlefield is fascinating. Huge spirit slogans are visible everywhere, representing the guiding principles of the wartime era.
接著來到瓊林里辦公室這邊，我們要參觀的是金門自衛隊軍史館以及最著名的戰地坑道之一 - 瓊林地下戰鬥坑道。
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Next, we arrived at the Qionglin Village Office to visit the Kinmen Self-Defense Force History Museum and one of the most famous tunnels—the Qionglin Civil Defense Tunnel.
道窮洞盡疑無路、柳暗花明又一村，橫批 - 別有洞天，金門這樣的對聯還真不少。這個看起來像民宅地下室的入口，其實就是多年來保護金門民眾生命安全的地下坑道起點。跟著張老闆的腳步，我們一行人一步一步走下這段屬於過去不為世人所熟悉的歷史，正式揭開屬於金門戰地的神秘面紗。
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This entrance, looking like a basement, is the start of the underground tunnel that protected civilians for years. Following Mr. Zhang, we stepped into this hidden history, unveiling the mystery of the Kinmen battlefield.
走進地道深處會先來到這一個地下碉堡，這裡是過去自衛隊金湖大隊瓊林中隊的神經中樞。牆面上展示著當年各項任務編制及裝備管制表，戰爭時期全民皆兵，光看任務編組從 12 歲起跳，就不難想像當年環境的艱苦。也許也是因為這段過去，金門人在台灣來說算是相對團結的一群是大家有目共睹的。(張老闆說他不要露臉，所以幫他"馬"一下)
地道裡頭潮濕陰暗，目前開放參觀的部分已經由國家公園覆蓋水泥防護防止落石掉落砸傷遊客，不過地道裡仍不時有水滴落下，看來我們真的深入地下水層的下方了。
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Deep inside is a bunker, the former command center of the Qionglin Squadron. The wall displays task organizations showing that everyone, starting from age 12, was a soldier—a testament to the hardship of those times. The tunnel is damp and dark. Although reinforced with concrete for safety, water still drips, indicating we are deep underground.
隧道入口接近道路的地方都有一些像下圖左邊這種槍眼，張老闆說這個與路面切齊的設計是為了萬一敵軍登陸入城，在地道裡可以用槍打敵人的腳癱瘓敵軍，是很典型防禦上的工事設計。
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Near the entrances, there are gun ports flush with the road surface. Mr. Zhang explained this design allowed defenders to shoot at the legs of invading enemies, crippling them—a typical defensive fortification.
坑道的另一頭入口在瓊林的另一邊緊鄰環島北路，一出坑道迎接大家的就是金門最有名的風獅爺一哥。當然瓊林這地方除了位於大金正中央地理位置優良之外，風獅爺在這也有三絕。除了剛剛跟大家介紹的觀光客票選出來的風獅爺一哥之外，同時鑲嵌在牆裡最大跟最小的風獅爺也都在瓊林喔~
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Exiting the tunnel, we were greeted by Kinmen's most famous "Wind Lion God." Qionglin is not only centrally located but also famous for its Wind Lion Gods, including the most popular one, as well as the largest and smallest wall-embedded ones.
祭拜風獅爺的方式就是請他吃糖，所以在風獅爺嘴裡都會看到一些民眾敬供的糖果，也是地方很有趣的人文現象。
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People worship the Wind Lion God by offering candy. You can often see sweets in its mouth, a fascinating local cultural phenomenon.
接著張老闆帶我們到蔡氏家廟的總祠堂，光看建築就可以輕易分辨出他的與眾不同點，真的氣派好多。如果是私人家祠，牆面色調會以黑色呈現來跟一般的廟宇做區別，藍天白雲伴著屋簷上的燕尾，好一幅建築工藝呈現的完美畫面。
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Then we visited the main Tsai Ancestral Shrine. It's distinctively grand. Private ancestral halls use black walls to distinguish them from temples. The swallow-tail roofs against the blue sky create a perfect picture of architectural craftsmanship.
因為是總堂所以祠堂前面立了許多這種名叫舉人碑的東西。記得冰箱過年的時候介紹過台南柳營的劉家古厝吧？柳營劉家曾出過一文一武兩舉人，所以原來在古厝前立有兩支舉人桿，因為其中一支有次雷擊損毀，所以劉家古厝目前僅保留一支完整的。大家看桿下的基座就是金門蔡氏家廟前這種舉人碑。
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Since it's the main hall, there are many "Juren" (scholar) monuments in front. These are the bases for flagpoles honoring scholars who passed the imperial exams, similar to the ones I saw at the Liu Family Mansion in Tainan.
走進蔡氏家廟，屋頂樑上為數眾多的御賜匾額就不難讓人聯想蔡家在過去人才濟濟家道如日中天的繁榮景象。
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Inside the Tsai Ancestral Shrine, the numerous imperial plaques on the beams testify to the family's past prosperity and abundance of talent.
有趣的是在祠堂兩側牆面高處可以看到放置著兩把剪刀，其實這代表的意義就是取其剪 (ㄍㄚ) 刀福建話的諧音 - "家家" 平安的意思~
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Interestingly, you can see two pairs of scissors placed high on the walls. In the local dialect, "scissors" (Gia-do) sounds like "Family" (Gia), symbolizing "Family Peace."
現代化內裝與必吃廣東粥早餐
走馬看花在瓊林繞了一圈，最後就是要回到我在金門的小窩 - 樓仔下瓊林 111 號古厝民宿。
🇺🇸 Read in English
After a quick tour of Qionglin, it was time to return to my cozy nest in Kinmen—Louzai Xia No. 111.
房間是過去廂房考據古代結構及用料整修，但裡頭揉合現代化的居住元素，其實就是外表古意盎然、內部現代摩登。住宿房價其實也不貴，舒服柔軟的雙人大床、電視空調一應俱全，不過沒有冰箱，如果要使用在公共茶水間設有小冰箱一台可以自由使用。
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The rooms are restored side wings, blending ancient structure with modern elements—antique outside, modern inside. The price is reasonable. It features a comfortable double bed, TV, and AC. While there's no fridge in the room, there's a shared one in the common area.
浴室設備也是現代化的，光看浴室實在很難把自己住在百年古厝做太多聯想~ XD
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The bathroom facilities are modern too. Looking at the bathroom, it's hard to believe you're staying in a century-old house!
房價是一泊一食，入住時老闆會詢問希望吃何種早餐？並會在指定的時間把餐點放置在大堂的桌上。因為剛到金門沒概念所以請老闆直接安排，結果第二天出現在桌上的就是這碗來到金門聽說必吃的廣東粥+油條。
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Breakfast is included. The owner asks for your preference upon check-in and places it in the lobby at the designated time. I let the owner decide, and the next morning I got the must-try Kinmen specialty: Guangdong Porridge with Youtiao (fried dough sticks).
坦白說我一開始並不覺得這碗加了豬肝、赤肉跟肉丸的廣東粥有何了不起？但是當我吃了第一口之後，雖然已經有點冷掉，但是那刷嘴的口感竟讓我在不知不覺中把這一大碗給喝光光了。油條本身也相當彈牙有咬勁，我還記得吃了半根之後吃不下還特別把剩下的半根拿回去房間藏好才出門，晚上回到民宿再拿來吃還是可口美味，真的是太厲害了~
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Honestly, I didn't expect much from the porridge at first. But after the first bite, even though it had cooled down a bit, it was so addictive that I finished the whole bowl without realizing it. The Youtiao was chewy and delicious. I even saved half a stick for later, and it was still tasty when I ate it that night!
* 本文為旅遊紀錄，民宿資訊與價格可能有所變動，建議造訪前先確認。
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