「傳 台中正老牌香菇肉羹」是原第一市場內,從 1944 年就開業至今,已經有超過 70 年的歷史。開枝散葉的結果,在台中地區的分店也多達 4 家左右,每一家都是由第二代兄弟姐妹各自獨立經營。
不過比照外頭許多老店,開枝散葉後常常出現僅此一家、絕無分號的鬧劇,記憶中這家兄弟姊妹各自經營,不但沒有互相撇清關係,還各自有自己死忠的客戶。
4 家裡頭冰箱已經吃過三家,只剩第五市場四維街上還沒吃過。這天到附近的單位擔任 2017 台中十大伴手禮評審完,有這種讓我吃遍所有分店的制霸機會怎能放過咧?
🇺🇸 Read in English
"Chuan Taichung Authentic Mushroom Meat Stew" originated in the First Market and has been operating since 1944, boasting over 70 years of history. As it expanded, it branched into about 4 locations in the Taichung area, each independently run by the second-generation siblings.
Unlike many old shops that claim to be the "one and only" after family disputes, these siblings run their own branches without severing ties, and each has its own loyal customer base.
I had already eaten at three of the four locations, leaving only the Siwei Street branch near the Fifth Market. After serving as a judge for the Taichung Top 10 Souvenirs nearby, how could I pass up the chance to conquer all the branches?
1. 綠川本店:經典的開始
再帶各位看四維店之前,先帶大家看看之前吃過的其他三家。首先我當初在無名寫復興店時,就是收到綠川店第三代網友的回應。當時如數家珍跟我說明了這四家店分別是哪些長輩在經營的。可惜的是,因為當初無名搬家的時候,好像把復興店的文章遺失了。年代久遠,我只記得復興路是姑姑開的。
綠川店我手上還有兩篇舊文章可以參考,有興趣的朋友,可以自行點擊以下兩個連結:2012年版、2015年版。
🇺🇸 Read in English
Before showing you the Siwei store, let me introduce the other three I've visited. When I first wrote about the Fuxing store on the old Wretch blog, I received a response from a third-generation member of the Lu Chuan store. They detailed which elders were running which of the four stores. Unfortunately, that post was lost during a blog migration. It's been a long time, but I recall the Fuxing Road branch was opened by their aunt.
I still have two older articles about the Lu Chuan main store for reference (2012 and 2015 versions).
📍 傳 正老牌香菇肉焿 (綠川店)
- 地址:400台中市中區綠川西街167號
- 電話:04-2227-9569
- 營業時間:08:30–19:30 (週二公休)
2. 雙十店 (已停業):運將最愛的好停車分店
這家雙十店,其實離綠川店非常非常的近,走路可能不用五分鐘就到了。可是雖然兩家店這麼的近,彼此生意卻完全沒有打架,感覺雙十店因為在大馬路邊,所以很多客人都是跑業務或是開車的運匠,基本上比較好停車一點。
跟綠川本店一樣,他們家的肉羹麵也是用盤子裝,然後會附上一片黃蘿蔔。吃起來的感覺,我覺得兩家店味道口感其實不分軒輊,都很好吃。
詳細用餐情況,請參考:雙十店2015版。
補充:剛剛朋友跟我說,雙十店已經停業好一陣子了,聽說是長輩年紀大做累了,還好我有吃過,不然制霸文就GG了~
🇺🇸 Read in English
The Shuang Shi store was incredibly close to the Lu Chuan store—maybe a five-minute walk. Despite the proximity, their businesses didn't conflict. Being on a main road, the Shuang Shi store attracted many salespeople and drivers since parking was much easier.
Like the main store, their meat stew noodles were served on plates with a slice of pickled yellow radish. Taste-wise, both were equally delicious.
Update: A friend recently told me that the Shuang Shi store has been closed for a while. I heard the elders retired due to old age. I'm glad I got to try it before it closed!
📍 傳 正老牌香菇肉焿 (雙十店) 已停業
- 原址:400台中市中區雙十路一段23號
- 狀態:長輩年紀大退休,目前已歇業。
3. 復興店:隱藏版現炒空心菜與熱魚
這家位於後火車站的復興店,其實是冰箱以前還在上班的時候最常順道吃晚餐的地方。雖然附近較不好停車,不過想當年也抵擋不住我下班後要去吃的決心。(遠目.....)
復興店的用餐空間,應該是四家店裡面最大的,整個到店裡好像走進時光隧道一樣,因為我很小的時候到這邊用餐,到現在樣子都沒變過。
招牌肉羹一大鍋,當然是特色。我還記得長大後第一次自己去吃,點了肉羹麵然後想說順便來個青菜自我安慰一下。沒想到老闆娘接單後,竟然開始在現場炒起空心菜!你沒看錯,他是用炒的不是用燙的喔。這應該可以堪稱這家店的隱藏版菜色了吧?
冰箱最近回訪發現,復興店現在也開始賣傳說中的隱藏版「熱魚(滷黑輪)」啦!來這邊點碗肉羹麵、配上現炒空心菜,再來一根熱魚,絕對是老台中人的超完美 Set!
🇺🇸 Read in English
The Fuxing store, located behind the train station, used to be my go-to spot for dinner after work. Despite the tough parking, nothing could stop my determination to eat there back in the day.
It has the largest dining area among the four. Walking in feels like a time tunnel—it looks exactly the same as when I dined here as a kid.
The giant pot of meat stew is, of course, their signature. I still remember ordering a meat stew noodle and asking for some greens. To my surprise, the boss lady started stir-frying water spinach right on the spot! Yes, stir-fried, not blanched. This is definitely their hidden menu item!
Update: I recently found out that the Fuxing store now also sells the legendary hidden item "Hot Fish" (braised Oden/Tempura)! A bowl of meat stew noodles, stir-fried water spinach, and a piece of "Hot Fish" makes the perfect combo for native Taichung folks!
📍 傳 正老牌香菇肉羹 (復興店)
- 地址:401台中市東區復興路四段79號
- 電話:04-2226-5255
- 營業時間:11:00~19:00 (週一、週二公休)
- 小提醒:目前營業時間已提早打烊且週休二日,大家不要白跑一趟囉!
4. 四維店:第五市場旁的隱藏版「熱魚」
最後來介紹位於台中第五市場,四維街上的這家。可能是因應旁邊就是第五市場早市,所以這家店的營業時間,跟其他三家略有不同,比較早開也早休息。看到這一大鍋肉羹湯,就知道自己又來到熟悉的店。
攤頭上的大鋼盆裡,裝著店家自製的各式滷味。雖然這家店也有賣爌肉飯,不過沒看到豬腳,那應該是綠川店的特有菜色。下午茶時間簡單吃,除肉羹麵外滷鴨蛋一定要來一顆。然後剛剛看到店裡有別家沒有的滷黑輪,也來一隻參考看看。
滷黑輪(10元): 這就是我剛剛說這家店的隱藏版,真的在別家都沒看過。基本上就是用魚漿做的,咬開之後,發現味道跟口感都還不錯,大家就想像是吃熱魚丸就好。
對了,「熱魚」是我們台中人對黑輪這東西的專稱。就像肥皂我們台中人叫他做「DE摳」,所以出了台中可能沒人知道什麼叫做熱魚?其實就是黑輪啦!
滷鴨蛋(10元): 滷蛋就要用鴨蛋滷,吃起來蛋黃才會綿的啦!
肉羹麵(45元): 看到這碗麵,大家有沒有一點點小疑問在腦海裡漂過去?有發現到哪邊跟其他三家店有何不同嗎?沒錯,四家店裡只有四維店是用「碗」裝麵,而且他們家也沒有附上一片小黃蘿蔔。
基本上肉羹塊吃起來跟其他三家一樣美味,但聽說都是各店自製,那配方跟製作技巧掌握得相當精準。羹麵吃起來的味道也差不多,唯一感覺到不同的是,這家分店勾的芡比較沒有其他三家那麼重。雖然攪個兩下湯就變得比較不濃稠,不過美味度不變才是重點啊~
就這樣,在我們台中堪稱最老字號的肉羹四家分店,在吃完這一碗肉羹麵後,就被我完全 KO 了。真的團結力量大,尤其是至親家人,其實能相互合作,利益共享,那伴隨來的經濟價值,決不是只在乎眼前收入多寡的人有辦法想像的呀~
🇺🇸 Read in English
Finally, let's talk about the Siwei Street branch near the Fifth Market. Likely due to the morning market next door, their operating hours are earlier than the rest. Seeing the familiar giant pot of meat stew assured me I was in the right place.
A large steel basin on the counter holds their homemade braised dishes. A must-order is their braised duck egg (duck eggs yield a much creamier yolk!). I also noticed braised "Hot Fish" (Oden), an exclusive hidden item I hadn't seen at the other branches.
By the way, "Hot Fish" is the local Taichung slang for Oden/Tempura! Outside of Taichung, people might have no idea what "Hot Fish" means.
As for the Meat Stew Noodles, did you notice a difference? This is the only branch that serves their noodles in a bowl instead of a plate, and they don't include the yellow pickled radish. The meat chunks are just as delicious, and the soup here is slightly less thickened with starch, which I actually prefer.
And with that, I've officially conquered all four branches of Taichung's oldest meat stew family. It's truly inspiring to see a family cooperate and share success across generations!
📍 傳 正老牌香菇肉羹 (四維店)
- 地址:403台中市西區四維街98號 (第五市場大麵羹對面)
- 電話:04-2227-9569 (註:有些網頁標示無,但原雙十店電話似乎轉接或共用)
- 營業時間:07:00~15:30 (週日公休)
隨著時間推移,現在陸陸續續也有第三代之後的年輕一輩出來開枝散葉、設立新分店囉!不過因為分店實在越來越多,族繁不及備載,所以就不在本文的資訊裡頭一一列舉了。大家如果有在各地看到這塊熟悉的招牌,也不妨去品嚐支持一下這傳承超過 70 年的台中在地好味道!
🕵️♂️ 【2026/04/08 家族輩份羅生門事件】
有熱心網友來留言指正,表示後火車站的「復興店」其實是大哥開的,而已經退休收攤的「雙十店」才是姑姑開的。因為這跟當年綠川店第三代跟我分享的資訊有點出入,簡直是台中肉羹界的羅生門啊!😆 之後如果有機會再訪,我會親自跟店家查證清楚,屆時會再上來做最正確的修改與更新喔!
* 以上食記純屬個人口味觀點分享,請各位朋友自行參考!
* 💡 貼心提醒:實際售價及餐飲品項以店家現場提供為準,本文僅供參考!
* 實際營業時間依店家現場公告為準
* 本文照片分別以 iPhone 5S、iPhone 6S 及 SONY A-6000 拍攝








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以上食記純屬個人口味觀點分享,請各位朋友自行參考!