既然有心要把一月環島的食記寫完，我想就必須一氣呵成，不然擺著的結果一定又是不小心給忘記了 XD。經過了一晚的休息，因為當時蘇花公路有坍方事件，為了方便施工單位搶修所以行車時間有管制。所以為了趕在閘口關閉前入山，所以當天一大早才七點多我們就準備出發囉。早餐是看見鐵道民宿幫我們準備的，一包一包裝好讓我們帶在路上吃，揪甘心。
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Since I'm determined to finish the food diary of my round-island trip in January, I must do it in one go; otherwise, I'll surely forget about it again XD. After a night's rest, we prepared to leave early at 7 AM to beat the traffic control on the Suhua Highway due to landslides and repair work. The breakfast was prepared by the B&B, packed nicely for us to eat on the road—so thoughtful!
電冰箱最新食譜書(已絕版) 一人餐桌這邊買唷
抵達南方澳：非假日的寧靜
還好後來在最後關頭入了山，經過一路折騰顛頗，約莫中午我們就來到南方澳漁港參拜媽祖，順便在此休息用餐。因為家人決定各自去找吃的，所以我就跟老婆帶著兒子一邊晃一邊找。大家應該都知道南方澳漁港以出產各式海鮮聞名，如果季節對了，這裡也號稱鯖魚的故鄉。
只是我們這次到的時候季節已過，沒吃到鯖魚料理是有那麼一點殘念。既然難得來到這邊，總要吃一點這裡比較特別的，來到南方澳大家應該對於路邊很多煙燻花枝跟煙燻魚肚、魚卵有印象吧？雖然來沒幾次，不過每次我要吃一些才覺得不虛此行。這回到南方澳是非假日，有營業的店家不多，最後走到這家在港邊的阿通伯魚丸駐足。
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Fortunately, we made it into the mountain pass just in time. After a bumpy ride, we arrived at Nanfang'ao Fishing Port around noon to pay respects to Mazu and have lunch. Nanfang'ao is famous for seafood and is known as the hometown of mackerel. However, we missed the mackerel season this time, which was a pity. Since we were here, we had to try something special. Nanfang'ao is known for smoked squid and smoked fish maw sold by the roadside. Since it was a weekday, not many shops were open, so we stopped at "Ah Tong Bo Fish Balls" by the harbor.
阿通伯魚丸：煙燻花枝與飛虎魚丸
還沒走進點店哩，光看門口台上那幾隻可愛的煙燻花枝，剛剛舟車勞頓的疲憊就煙消雲散囉。這家叫做阿通伯魚丸，其實顧名思義魚丸也是這邊的特色小吃之一。他們這邊的魚丸叫做飛虎魚丸，那個魚我看起來有點像鬼頭刀，鬼頭刀做魚丸是很美味的。坐定之後就胡亂點了些東西，讓我們繼續看下去。
🇺🇸 Read in English
Before even entering the shop, seeing the cute smoked squids on the counter made my fatigue disappear. As the name suggests, fish balls are also a specialty here. Their fish balls are called "Fei Hu (Flying Tiger) Fish Balls," made from Mahi-mahi (Dorado), which makes delicious fish balls. We sat down and ordered a few things.
首先就是飛虎魚丸湯，說實話這個魚丸我個人覺得沒有想像中好吃，也許是我已經被台南的虱目魚丸給寵壞了吧？魚丸的肉質偏柴，魚鮮的味道也沒有特別突出，就當作是觀光客到此一遊嘗鮮吧，30 塊錢無傷大雅。
🇺🇸 Read in English
First up is the Fei Hu Fish Ball Soup. Honestly, I didn't find it as good as I imagined, perhaps because I've been spoiled by Tainan's milkfish balls. The texture was a bit dry, and the fish flavor wasn't particularly outstanding. Let's just treat it as a tourist experience; it's only 30 NTD anyway.
必吃煙燻拼盤：驚艷的煙燻魚肚
接下來這個就精彩囉 - 煙燻花枝跟煙燻魚肚拼盤。在這南方澳港邊做的料理果然名不虛傳，食材的新鮮度是一等一的，完全吃不到一絲絲的腥味。煙燻的工作做得很到位，色澤相當漂亮，吃在嘴裡滿滿的煙燻香，當時沒來杯啤酒實在是太可惜。花枝的肉質處理得很不錯，吃起來爽脆不會過老。
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Next up is the highlight—Smoked Squid and Smoked Fish Maw Platter. The freshness of the ingredients here at Nanfang'ao harbor is top-notch, with absolutely no fishy smell. The smoking process is done perfectly, giving it a beautiful color and a rich smoky flavor. It's a pity I didn't have a beer with it. The squid was crisp and not overcooked.
而煙燻魚肚著實令我驚豔，大家都知道魚肚這食材極易腐敗，很容易就有腥味，但阿通伯這魚肚想必一定夠新鮮，不但沒有腥味，而且切面還呈現漂亮的半透明色，感覺好像果凍一樣。吃起來的口感當然不似果凍，有點像牛筋，但是比牛筋還要再脆口一點，相當彈牙又好吃。吃的時候可以選擇沾芥末醬油或單吃，我個人覺得單吃在嘴巴裡咀嚼就很夠味，越嚼越香喔。單種類一份都是 50 元，這盤 100 元。
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The smoked fish maw truly amazed me. Fish maw spoils easily and often smells fishy, but Ah Tong Bo's was incredibly fresh. It had no fishy smell and looked semi-transparent like jelly. The texture was similar to beef tendon but crispier and chewier—delicious! You can dip it in wasabi soy sauce or eat it plain. I prefer eating it plain; the more you chew, the more flavorful it gets. Each item is 50 NTD, so this platter cost 100 NTD.
滷肉飯與難得的經驗
光喝湯吃煙燻小菜當然不會飽，所以青菜跟滷肉飯是一定要點的。雖然這兩樣不算有特色，不過記得當天因為是非假日，也許店家備料不足，我還是第一次點了燙青菜店家跟我說:抱歉，青菜沒了，我現在去買麻煩你稍等！呵呵，長這麼大當了這麼久老外還是第一次遇到這種情形，也算是難得的經驗唄。
🇺🇸 Read in English
Soup and smoked appetizers weren't enough, so we ordered vegetables and braised pork rice. Although these weren't particularly special, something memorable happened. Since it was a weekday, perhaps they didn't prepare enough ingredients. When I ordered blanched vegetables, the owner said, "Sorry, we're out of vegetables. I'll go buy some now, please wait!" Haha, this was the first time I've encountered such a situation dining out—quite a rare experience!
更多宜蘭旅遊資訊: 宜蘭縣景點美食總整理
* 本文為 2012 年食記，店家資訊與菜單價格可能有所變動，建議造訪前先確認。
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