連續寫了一個多禮拜的麗星郵輪沖繩遊記，終於告一段落。鏡頭拉回台灣，其實這家隱身在中美街331巷底(其實比較靠近華美街)的小日本料理店，冰箱已經相很久了。敢開在這這種地方的店，一定都有他們自己的兩把刷子。以這種心態去找店，說真的還沒踢到鐵板過呢，呵呵....
After finishing my cruise travelogue, let's return to Taiwan. I've been eyeing this small Japanese restaurant hidden in the alleys of Zhongmei Street for a long time. Shops brave enough to open in such hidden locations usually have some real skills. Following this intuition, I haven't been disappointed yet!
電冰箱最新食譜書(已絕版)
一人餐桌這邊買唷
一走進店裡，果然就是冰箱喜歡的那種日式小餐吧的風格。左邊有一個小包箱及兩個桌子，而右邊就是一整座日式的"卡布里"(料理台)。冰箱很喜歡坐在"台前"用餐，喝喝啤酒，吃吃握壽司、生魚片及一些下酒燒烤物，師傅有空還會跟你聊聊天喝兩杯，一整個多寫意呀。
跟師傅(應該是老闆吧?)說要吃握壽司，請他幫我們處理就好。師傅說他幫我們盡量控制預算在600元左右，我說OK! 除了握壽司之外，我們也點了一些烤物跟炸物，還有一瓶ASAHI，哈哈哈!
The interior has a cozy Japanese dining bar vibe. I love sitting at the counter (Itamae), enjoying sushi and beer while chatting with the chef. We asked the chef for an Omakase nigiri set within a budget of 600 TWD, plus some grilled and fried dishes and a beer!
這天看看台前的冰廚裡，魚種有比較少一點。在這種小店吃，其實有時候也要碰碰運氣，看看老闆當天進了些什麼料。
今天我們第一貫握壽司是軟絲。老闆說他們店裡用的軟絲都是買活體，處理之後再經急速冷凍保存，鮮度上面絕對是品質保證。這貫軟絲握壽司，口感紮實，除了食材本身自然的鮮甜及嚼勁之外完全嚐不到一絲海鮮的腥臭味。這軟絲我後前後吃了兩份共四貫喔。
第三貫是鮪魚。豪邁一刀下去片出來的魚肉厚度令人驚奇，醋飯份量不多，是個巧妙的配角。其實魚肉的鮮甜，在嘴裡迸開的感覺，真是一種視覺跟味覺上的享受呀!
接下來這一貫是飛魚。利落刀工片下來的生魚片，跟醋飯組合之後，用噴燈在魚肉上稍微炙烤。經過這個步驟，將魚肉裡的油脂分解出來，吃在嘴裡不但有魚肉的鮮甜味，還多了一份滑溜感唷。
We started with Squid (Neritic Squid), which was incredibly fresh and sweet with a great texture. Then came Tuna, with a generous thick cut that melted in the mouth. Next was Flying Fish, lightly seared (aburi) to release its oils, adding a smooth richness to the sweetness.
吃完這一貫，師傅問我們吃不吃海膽? 只見師傅先做好軍艦底，然後就很豪邁的挖了一大匙(約有三沱)看起來很新鮮還帶有彈性的海膽鋪上去。大家看這海膽的成色夠棒吧! 除了鮮度沒話說，入口除了海膽濃郁的口感跟鮮甜，完全吃不出坊間海膽令人受不了的藥水味，大推!
吃完海膽，師傅幫我們準備的是竹筴魚。這尾竹筴魚雖然比較大，但是口感並不差，魚肉還是新鮮彈牙。中場休息，師傅準備了味增黃瓜給我們清清嘴巴。
我問師傅店裡今天有蝦可以吃嗎? 師傅說，店裡只有胭脂蝦問我要不要? 我跟他點了兩貫，結果沒想到他們家的胭脂蝦是大尾的，跟大草蝦一樣大! 光那蝦身，就已經大約12公分長了吧? 蝦頭部份，師傅幫我們塞了一點飯下去燒烤，整個蝦頭都可以吃，真的是超香的。
The Sea Urchin (Uni) Gunkan was generous and fresh, without any chemical aftertaste—highly recommended! We also had Horse Mackerel (Aji) and a palate cleanser of Miso Cucumber. Finally, the Botan Shrimp was massive, about 12cm long! The head was stuffed with rice and grilled, full of rich flavor.
燒烤雞軟骨，沒有多餘調味，焦焦脆脆的，是下酒好物! 接下來是烤培根捲，光那賣相就讓人口水流滿地囉...培根捲金針菇烤得到位且不焦，香香的口感又帶點肉汁，沾醬吃很不賴。
炸物我們點了唐揚雞，麵衣裡面加了黑芝麻，感覺很好看。咬開之後，哇賽!! 雞肉不但很嫩而且一點都不柴，肉汁還會滴下來猴腮雷啊!
這道之後，老闆給了我一盤炸沙腸魚骨，酥酥香香，是我吃過最好吃的魚骨。飯後甜點是冰鎮紅豆湯及西瓜，都很好吃唷。
We ordered grilled chicken cartilage and bacon-wrapped enoki mushrooms—perfect with beer. The Fried Chicken (Karaage) had black sesame in the batter and was incredibly juicy inside. The chef also treated us to fried fish bones, which were crispy and fragrant.
終於到了要結帳的時候，結果金額讓冰箱超級意外!!! 因為以上這些東西吃下去，連同一瓶140元的ASAHI啤酒，老闆娘說全部只要1190元。蝦米!!! 全部只要1190元，真的是超划算的。
也就是說，扣掉啤酒的金額，餐點部分只要1050元，原來上面那些握壽司，老板全部只算我600元，真的有夠超值的辣!! 我現在終於知道為什麼這家店開在巷子裡可以開十幾年的原因囉。除了真材實料價格合理，重點是老闆親切，在這邊吃飯感覺相當舒服，賓至如歸的感覺，讓人還想再去說。
The bill was a pleasant surprise: only 1,190 TWD for everything, including a 140 TWD beer! The sushi set was only 600 TWD. Unbelievable value! Great food, reasonable prices, and friendly service—no wonder this hidden gem has survived in the alley for over a decade. I'll definitely be back!
地址：台中市西區中美街331巷10號
電話：04-2301-3743
營業時間：17:00~24:00 (每月第二、四星期天公休)
備註：巷弄內不好停車，建議騎車前往或停在外圍步行進入。
* 本文為歷史食記回顧，店家營業狀況與價格以現場為準。
* This is a review of a past dining experience. Current prices and hours may vary.
* 本文照片以 iPhone 16 Pro 拍攝 (模擬) / 當時相機拍攝
南北貨俱樂部粉絲團，請掃QR CODE來按讚喔!
遠遠的在海平面上看到了高雄市的地標-八五大樓，也代表假期已經進入尾聲。長這麼大還算是第一次這樣在海上看台灣，不過感想不太好，因為跟日本比起來，台灣的空氣真的好濁，海面上也飄著一大堆油汙跟垃圾。以上，就是台灣高雄港外，給遠道而來的客人的迎賓印象。以下是大船入港的一些過程，冰箱拍下來了。
Seeing the 85 Sky Tower on the horizon meant our vacation was ending. It was my first time seeing Taiwan from the sea, but the impression wasn't great. Compared to Japan, the air was smoggy, and the water was polluted with oil and trash. Not exactly a warm welcome for visitors.
電冰箱最新食譜書(已絕版)
一人餐桌這邊買唷
這是高雄港的入口處，牌子上寫的是"歡迎蒞臨中華民國高雄港"，因為房間窗戶上外面的水氣，所以拍起來有點模糊。
岸邊的海巡署，建物上來寫著"快樂出帆"，還滿親切的! 這裡是旗津的渡船頭，在這種距離跟角度看旗津還真是難得!
Entering Kaohsiung Harbor, we saw the "Welcome to Kaohsiung Port, ROC" sign. We also passed the Coast Guard station with "Happy Sailing" written on it, and got a unique view of the Cijin Ferry Pier from the ship.
五天四夜的行程，再怎麼精彩總會到了結束的時候。用完餐之後，就是回到房間稍微打包一下行李，隨後冰箱就下去五樓的星辰酒廊辦理結帳跟領護照的事宜。
因為冰箱看資料上是寫"持藍色船卡的人，直接到五樓星辰酒廊結帳之後就可以順便領護照；而持黃色船卡的人，必須要先到四樓櫃檯結完帳後，再到五樓星辰酒廊領護照。"
只是冰箱一到現場，已經一大堆人在排隊等著領護照。此時我後面的一個媽媽跟我說:要先去四樓結完帳在上來排隊喔，我們早上都已經結完了! 沙米??? 怎麼跟資料上寫的不一樣???? 這麼媽媽拿的也是藍色船卡，難道有改嗎?
於是後來就跟後面這個媽媽橋了一下請他幫我顧一下位置，後來冰箱就下樓去問。結果是....白跑一趟!!! 哈哈! 而且回到上面我才發現，結帳的人可以順便領護照"還不用排隊"@@a 那我剛剛排那麼久是在排心酸的喔????
The checkout process was chaotic. The instructions said Blue Card holders could settle bills and collect passports directly on the 5th floor. However, a lady in line told me I had to go to the 4th floor first. I wasted time checking, only to find out she was wrong. It turned out people settling bills could skip the long passport queue entirely! I waited for nothing.
其實準備下船這部分，是為整趟航程下了一個最不美麗的句點。整個準備下船，到下船的過程，其實跟"逃難"沒什麼兩樣! 在這裡冰箱敢打包票，也許整趟航程感覺都很OK，但是一切絕對會在下船這流程通通幻滅，想像一下電影鐵達尼號最那場景是如何? 動線安排混亂，工作人員只會擋在樓梯口不讓人通行，大家擠成一團也沒有人在旁邊疏導，一整個就像逃難一樣，能不幻滅嗎?
終於，人龍開始動了，這時候也已經差不多三點鐘了。人很多很亂，加上電梯很小，疏運真的很慢。雖然冰箱帶了一卡大皮箱，後來還是想說用手提爬樓梯到一樓還挺得住。沒想到，才下到三樓就塞車囉。人超多，那感覺突然之間我就感受到什麼叫"逃難"囉。不誇張，如果再亂一點，踩死人都有可能，因為大家一直擠。
Disembarkation was a disaster, ruining the trip's ending. It felt like a refugee evacuation scene from Titanic. Staff blocked stairways without guiding people, causing massive overcrowding. We waited for ages in the lounge. When we finally moved, the stairs were jammed with people and luggage. It was dangerous and chaotic.
費盡千辛萬苦，終於下了船，沒想到更令人失望的還在後頭。咱們國家的入境處，堪稱"國家門面"的地方，竟然只是一間鐵皮屋。還是一間隨便蓋一蓋的，大家看像不像鄉下的農舍或鐵工廠?
進了服務中心，裡頭動線也是混亂，這時又讓我感受到電影裡面逃難時排隊爭先恐後搶上船的感覺。此時只想快快出關，趕快解脫! 這一切，也只是為了拿照這枚印有大船的入境戳章呀....囧rz
The disappointment continued after disembarking. The "National Gateway" immigration center was just a shabby tin shed, looking like a rural warehouse. Inside, the queues were disorganized, again feeling like a refugee camp. All this chaos just for a ship-themed entry stamp in my passport.
後記心得感想:
Final thoughts: 1. Bring seasickness medicine! 2. Service communication was an issue. Despite speaking Mandarin, the Chinese staff had trouble understanding specific requests (like storing breast milk), and shift handovers were poor. They really need Taiwanese staff. 3. Be careful with currency conversion when using credit cards on board. 4. Overall, the hardware was okay, but the software (service/management) failed. I wouldn't take the SuperStar Libra again.
活動名稱：2010 高雄首航次
航程天數：5天4夜
備註：本文為歷史遊記回顧，紀錄當年的感動與細節。
* 本文為歷史遊記回顧，郵輪設施與營運狀況以目前為準。
* This is a review of a past trip in 2010.
* 本文照片以 iPhone 16 Pro 拍攝 (模擬) / 當時相機拍攝
南北貨俱樂部粉絲團，請掃QR CODE來按讚喔!
再開始繼續寫接下去的陸上遊記之前，先跟大家介紹一下我們兩個上陸後的交通方式-租車自助旅遊!! 雖然冰箱本身早就有在國外開車的經驗(米國跟菲律賓)，不過這次到日本要開左右完全顛倒的右駕車，說不緊張，那真的是騙人的!!!
決定租車旅行，其實是在出發前三天才臨時決定。雖然船上有一些上岸的行程可以參加，但是根據曾經搭過一樣航線的朋友說到岸上行程很虛，價格又很貴，強烈建議不要參加....
Before writing about the shore excursions, let me introduce our mode of transportation on land: renting a car for a self-drive tour! Although I had experience driving abroad (USA and Philippines), I was nervous about driving a right-hand drive car in Japan for the first time. We decided to rent a car just three days before departure because friends warned us that the ship's shore excursions were expensive and not worth it.
電冰箱最新食譜書(已絕版)
一人餐桌這邊買唷
既然要自助旅行，那就得上"背包客棧"爬爬文，做做功課。看裡面很多人上岸後，都租車來代步。看來看去，冰箱最後是選擇 OTS沖繩租車。
OTS預約租車其實相當方便，只要在網路上完成預約手續，OTS就會寄一封確認MAIL到指定信箱。到目的地時，OTS就會派出專人專車到碼頭或機場接送喔。
日本跟台灣駕照是互相承認的，想在日本開車，只要在出國前到各地監理所(站)花100塊(註:現已改為200元)申請駕照日文譯本，連同台灣駕照正本一起帶到日本即可使用。注意，日本境內國際駕照並不適用唷。其實到監理所申請這日文譯本速度還滿快的，冰箱花不到十分鐘就拿到手囉。
I chose OTS Rent-a-Car after researching on backpacker forums. Booking online was easy, and they provide pick-up service at the port. To drive in Japan, Taiwanese drivers need to apply for a Japanese translation of their driver's license at the DMV in Taiwan (cost: 100 TWD, now 200 TWD). Bring both the original license and the translation. International Driving Permits are NOT valid in Japan.
按照行程表，船在台灣時間5/4早上7點會靠岸。當船靠岸的時候，日本海關當局會派專人上船幫大家辦理入關手續。通關地點在五樓船頭的星辰酒廊，建議早早前往排隊。通關時是憑每個人自己的那張登船卡，經過面試及按指紋兩樣手續之後，海關人員會發給一張"上陸許可證"，之後就憑這張在日本國境內合法活動囉。
結果我們一出閘口才發現，整艘船我們是第一個下船的旅客，連在船邊準備歡迎大家的鼓號樂隊都還沒準備好，哈哈哈哈! 一下船，當然要給他來張觀光客的照片囉...
Japanese customs officers boarded the ship to handle immigration. We queued early at the Stardust Lounge. After fingerprinting and an interview, we received a "Landing Permit." We were actually the first passengers to disembark, even before the welcome band was ready! Of course, we took some tourist photos with the massive ship.
過沒多久，OTS的小巴就出現在我們面前，前往那霸營業所辦理手續。由於這次是日本"黃金週"，我想租的小車(SK等級)被租光了。不過很LUCKY的是，服務員張小姐幫我們免費升等到S等級1000CC的"大車"，也就是台灣的馬2 (Mazda 2)。
這台小銀，車號"沖繩505 15-18"就是冰箱在日本，人生裡開的第一部右駕車，屌吧!
那霸還車的時候，冰箱決定隔天在石垣島也要租車玩。請好心的張小姐幫忙，結果她又幫我以SK等級的價錢預約到S級的車輛，這次到沖繩真的遇到貴人呀....
The OTS shuttle took us to their office. Since it was Golden Week, the small car (SK class) I booked was unavailable. Luckily, the staff upgraded us to an S class (Mazda 2) for free! This silver car was my first right-hand drive experience. I also asked the staff to help book a car for Ishigaki Island the next day, and she got me another upgrade deal!
分不清東南西北怎麼辦? 放心，日本的租賃車每一台車上都有導航系統。只要輸入電話號碼或MapCode，就可輕易導航到目的地。不過要特別注意的是，設定導航時必須**「拉上手煞車」**，否則機器會認為車輛行進中而拒絕操作。
接下來就是開車囉...我承認剛開始開真的很緊張，尤其是方向燈跟雨刷撥桿完全相反。一上路，常常看到一台車沒下雨但是雨刷不停擺...因為要打方向燈打成雨刷辣....囧rz。
不過熟能生巧，隔天在石垣島，冰箱開車就已經回復應有的水準，果然開車對我來說是天賦!!(神氣樣)
All rental cars come with GPS. You can navigate by entering phone numbers or MapCodes. Note: You must pull the handbrake to operate the GPS! Driving on the right side was nerve-wracking at first. I kept turning on the wipers instead of the turn signal because the controls are swapped! But I got used to it quickly, and by the second day in Ishigaki, I was driving like a pro.
比較大的觀光景點通常都有免費停車場，但進了市區就要找收費停車場。我在國際通巷子裡找到這種無人停車場。
車子停妥後，三分鐘後地上的障礙物會升起卡住底盤。一小時300日幣的停車費真是貴森森。領車時，按下停車格編號並繳費，障礙物就會下降，此時就可以把車開走囉。
Tourist spots usually have free parking, but in the city, you need paid lots. I used an unmanned parking lot in Kokusai Street. After parking, a flap rises from the ground to lock the car. It cost 300 JPY per hour. To leave, you pay at the machine, and the flap lowers.
還車前要把油箱加滿。還車手續很簡單，出示加油收據並檢查車輛外觀即可。
後記: 郵輪岸上觀光行程動輒2500元以上，兩人就要五千。相較之下，租車自駕平均連油資都花不到台幣1500元，只要克服心理障礙，真的經濟又寫意。在沖繩開車大家都很守規矩，服務人員也很親切，是非常棒的體驗。
Before returning the car, you must fill up the tank. The return process is simple: show the gas receipt and check the car for damages. Self-driving is much cheaper than the ship's excursions (less than 1,500 TWD vs. 5,000+ TWD for two people). Drivers in Okinawa are polite and follow the rules, making it a pleasant experience.
預約方式：可透過官網預約，提供港口接送
必備文件：台灣駕照正本 + 日文譯本 (監理所申請)
備註：日本為右駕，請務必注意行車安全。
* 本文為歷史遊記回顧，租車規定與費用以目前營運狀況為準。
* This is a review of a past trip. Current rental rules and prices may vary.
* 本文照片以 iPhone 16 Pro 拍攝 (模擬) / 當時相機拍攝
南北貨俱樂部粉絲團，請掃QR CODE來按讚喔!
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