人在一個地方生活過，總有些記憶中的味道三不五時就想回味一下。這輩子因為讀書的關係，有機會在新竹生活了一段不算短的日子。
因為新竹市區物價高，其實平常我大多都是跟我姐姐在家自己煮。因為吃外面的機會不多，加上我當時也不是什麼美食專家像現在挑嘴，所以對幾家店的印象就很深刻，「原夜市鴨肉麵」就是其中的一家。
🇺🇸 Read in English
When you've lived in a place, there are always those familiar flavors you crave every now and then. Because of my studies, I had the opportunity to live in Hsinchu for a decent amount of time.
Since the cost of living in Hsinchu City is high, I usually cooked at home with my sister. Because we didn't eat out often, and I wasn't a picky foodie like I am now, I have vivid memories of a few particular restaurants. Yuan Ye Shi Duck Meat Noodles is one of them.
1. 新竹煙燻鴨肉的歷史與傳承
新竹煙燻鴨肉的歷史可以追溯到 1950 年代，當時的中央市場夜市 (中正台) 就有許多鴨肉麵攤位。經過多年的發展，新竹煙燻鴨肉已經成為當地重要的美食文化，也是許多新竹人記憶中不可或缺的味道。
和其他地區整隻鴨子煮熟成鹽水鴨後直接下去煙燻不同，新竹地區的煙燻鴨作法，會先用竹子將鴨肉像人家做南京板鴨那般「撐開」之後再進爐煙燻。
所以大家到新竹的燻鴨店頭，常常會看到燻鴨就像照片裡面這樣一塊方方正正的等你來點餐。雖然新竹賣鴨肉的店家不乏名店，但講起淵源，我覺得實際的情況雖然比較不容易考究，但實際上應該跟我們台中清水米糕全部系出同源（王塔）類似。反正吃東西本來就是非常主觀，合自己口味、吃得開心才是最重要的呀！
🇺🇸 Read in English
The history of smoked duck in Hsinchu can be traced back to the 1950s, when there were many duck noodle stalls in the Central Market night market (Zhongzhengtai). After years of development, Hsinchu smoked duck has become an important part of the local food culture and an indispensable flavor in the memories of many Hsinchu people.
Unlike other regions where the whole duck is cooked into a salt-water duck and then smoked directly, the smoked duck in Hsinchu is made by first using bamboo to stretch the duck meat open, similar to how Nanjing pressed duck is made, before it is smoked in the oven. That's why when you go to a smoked duck shop in Hsinchu, you often see the smoked duck as a square piece like in the photo, waiting for you to order.
While there's no shortage of famous duck restaurants in Hsinchu, when it comes to origins, I think the actual situation might be similar to our Taichung Qingshui rice cakes, where they all originate from the same source, Wang Ta, even though it's not easy to verify. Anyway, eating is subjective, and the most important thing is to enjoy what you eat!
2. 凍結時光的老字號：原夜市鴨肉麵
原夜市鴨肉麵的歷史可以追溯到 1950 年代，當時創始人許老先生在新竹市區的中央市場夜市 (中正台) 擺攤賣鴨肉麵。由於許老先生的鴨肉麵用料實在、價格親民，加上他獨特的煙燻鴨肉風味，很快就累積了好口碑，成為夜市裡的人氣攤位。
1980年代隨著中央市場夜市的沒落，許老先生將攤位遷移到中央路上，並正式取名為「原夜市鴨肉麵」，繼續傳承他的美味。如今，原夜市鴨肉麵已經傳承到第三代，仍然堅持使用傳統的煙燻手法處理鴨肉，並維持平價的價格。
我到新竹第一次吃他們家的鴨肉麵就已經是在現址，最近一次光臨是 2013 年，2024 年再訪感覺好像走進時光隧道，因為完全一模一樣，連桌椅的擺設方式都沒有改變過。
🇺🇸 Read in English
The history of Yuan Ye Shi Duck Meat Noodles can be traced back to the 1950s when the founder, Mr. Xu, set up a stall selling duck meat noodles in the Central Market night market (Zhongzhengtai) in downtown Hsinchu. Because Mr. Xu's duck meat noodles used quality ingredients and were affordably priced, coupled with his unique smoked duck flavor, he quickly built a good reputation and became a popular stall in the night market.
In the 1980s, with the decline of the Central Market night market, Mr. Xu moved his stall to Zhongyang Road and officially named it "Yuan Ye Shi Duck Meat Noodles," continuing to pass on his delicious legacy. Today, Yuan Ye Shi Duck Meat Noodles has been passed down to the third generation, still insisting on using traditional smoking techniques to process the duck meat and maintaining affordable prices.
The first time I had their duck meat noodles in Hsinchu, they were already at their current location. My most recent visit was in 2013, and when I went back again in 2024, it felt like stepping into a time machine. Everything was exactly the same, even the way the tables and chairs were arranged hadn't changed a bit.
3. 必點招牌：鴨肉麵、炒鴨血與煙燻鴨肉
這是我每次來這邊吃麵的標配，當然窮學生時代是沒有那盤鴨肉的啦~ 以前在新竹讀書的時候，新竹的物價因為竹科的關係一直都很貴。我還記得民國87年的時候，清大夜市一個炸雞腿飯就要 75 元了說 (87年台中一碗陽春麵應該還是 15~20 元)。
🍜 鴨肉麵 (小碗 65元)
使用鴨骨熬煮的鮮美湯頭，味道鮮美甘甜，沒有過多的調味。湯底是用大量鴨骨長時間熬煮，才能讓湯頭呈現乳白色，這也代表他們的湯頭更加濃郁，富含膠質和鴨肉的營養精華。
雖然鴨肉麵從以前到現在都是給兩片燻鴨胸做代表，不過記得當年能吃上這兩片也是大大滿足啊！鴨肉皮彈帶燻香，肉質不柴軟嫩，重點是去骨！麵條採用粗的黃麵，口感Q彈有嚼勁，現在外面要吃到這種粗的黃麵真的越來越不容易。它容易吸附湯汁，讓麵條更加入味，每一口都充滿了湯汁的鮮美香氣。
🥢 炒鴨血 (85元)
翻翻我 2013 年去吃的資料，那時一份賣 50 元，而我當年的反應是嫌貴了一點，誰曉得十多年後一份已經來到 85 元？那學生時代一份到底多少錢？可能 30 元而已吧？
雖然價格已經回不去了，不過善於複製小吃的我，到現在仍然沒有抓到這道菜火候及調味的精髓，導致本來想吃自己做，到現在沒有一次成功紀錄。沒辦法，店家下烏醋的比例實在太精準，酸中帶香的風味，鴨血口感依然順滑咕溜。說真的，既然人不是在國外，想回味還是跑趟新竹讓專業的來比較實在！
🍗 煙燻鴨肉 (1/4隻 210元，時價)
煙燻鴨肉時價，這樣 1/4 隻 210 元其實也挺划算的。煙燻鴨肉是原夜市鴨肉麵的招牌特色，鴨肉經過煙燻後，帶有獨特的香氣，肉質也更加鮮嫩。
因為經過先蒸煮後煙燻的步驟，所以在烹調過程中已經將大部分的脂肪去除乾淨。整個跟一般的鹽水鴨或燻鴨比起來，原夜市的版本就非常適合當「冷盤」享用，不會因為天氣冷肉質變硬，或是湯汁、油脂凝結必須回溫的尷尬來破壞口感。
🇺🇸 Read in English
Duck Meat Noodles: A small bowl is 65 NTD. The delicious broth, made from simmering duck bones, has a fresh and sweet taste without excessive seasoning. The broth gets its milky white color from a large number of duck bones simmered over a long period. This also means their broth is richer, full of collagen and the nutritional essence of duck meat.
They use thick yellow noodles that have a chewy and springy texture, making them perfect for soaking up the flavorful broth. It's getting harder and harder to find these kinds of thick yellow noodles these days.
Stir-fried Duck Blood: The stir-fried duck blood is 85 NTD. The shop's use of black vinegar is incredibly precise, creating a sour yet fragrant flavor, and the duck blood still has that smooth and slippery texture. Honestly, if I want to relive that taste, it's more realistic to just make a trip to Hsinchu and let the professionals handle it!
Smoked Duck: The smoked duck is priced at market value. This 1/4 duck for 210 NTD is actually quite a good deal. Because of the steaming and then smoking process, most of the fat is rendered out during cooking. Compared to regular salt-water duck or smoked duck, the version at Yuan Ye Shi is perfect for enjoying cold. You won't have the issue of the meat hardening in cold weather or the juices and fat congealing.
4. 店家資訊與菜單 (Store Info)
價目表上面的內容，除了價格有更動之外，其他幾乎都沒變，應該 70 幾年來都是這樣。至少我民國 87 年第一次吃到現在，確定品項都一致。
📍 原夜市鴨肉麵
- 地址：300新竹市東區中央路30號
- 電話：+886-3-5231862
- 營業時間：10:30~21:30
- 付款方式：現金
* 菜單品項價格如因物價波動等因素有做調整，以店家公布為主，僅供參考！
* The prices of menu items may be adjusted due to factors such as fluctuations in commodity prices, and the prices posted by the restaurant shall prevail. The prices listed are for reference only.
* 本文照片以 iPhone 13 Pro 拍攝
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